Subterranean Sweden – Stockholm’s subway art

Stockholm is a beautiful city, famed for its open spaces, waterways and islands.  So my travelling companions were unsurprisingly shocked when top of my itinerary for our long weekend in the Swedish capital was a tour of its underground train stations.

Known as the Tunnelbana or T-bana in Swedish, Stockholm’s subway system dates from the 1950s and consists of three main lines, red, blue and green, all converging on T-Centralen, or central station.  The system is clean, efficient and easy to navigate.  It is also a relatively inexpensive way to travel around the city.  Tickets cover a 75 minute, 24 hour, 72 hour or 30 day period and are valid on all public transport including commuter trains, trams and boats.  But the best thing about it is the art.  Come with me on a tour through some of my favourites.

T-Centralen

If you land at Stockholm Arlanda airport, chances are that your first introduction to the city centre will be stepping off a connecting train at T-Centralen station.  There are two trains that run from the airport, the express and the commuter.  The express currently costs SEK 540 for a return (about £47 or $60 or EUR 53).  The commuter train is included in a standard ticket although you do have to pay a SEK 120 surcharge for getting on or off at the airport.  We opted for the commuter train with a 72 hour pass, costing SEK 250, bringing us in at a total each of SEK 490.

As a hub, T-Centralen has more than one platform.  One of the platforms serving the green and red lines is decorated in pearlescent mosaic tiles, an ode to the style of the 1950s when the system was built.

In complete contrast the blue line platform was the first to feature murals and was painted in 1975 by Per Olof Ultvedt.  It is one of Stockholm’s cave stations, where the bored rock has been left in natural form, leaving you in no doubt that you are underground.  The upper level, depicts silhouetted images of the construction workers who built the station whilst the lower level, where the trains arrive, is covered in a network of organic shapes as though the platform lies beneath the roots of a giant tree.

Solna Centrum

Descending the escalators at Solna Centrum, on the blue line, is a little unsettling.  The dim light, cavernous ceiling and red and black tones, make it is hard not to think of Renaissance images of hell, or the bubbling liquid heart of the earth.  In fact, the murals at this station, painting by Karl-Olav Bjork and Anders Aberg are depictions of Sweden’s countryside, the red the sky at night and the black and green the land.  The mural was designed as a social commentary on rural depopulation and deforestation, a significant problem for Sweden in the 1970s when the station was painted.

Stadion

Painted by Ake Pallarp and Enno Hallek in 1973 Stadion on the red line is perhaps one of the most iconic of Stockholm’s stations, featuring amongst other colourful installations, a blue sky emblazoned with a rainbow.  Stadion is the stop for the 1912 Olympic stadium (hence the name) and an area still used for music concerts and annual Pride events.

Universitetet

Universietet station on the red line is your stop for Stockholm University and the Natural History Museum.  Mosaic is the media of choice here with walls dedicated to Carl Von Linne (otherwise Carl Linnaeus) Sweden’s famous botanist who formalised the system of naming organisms.  The tiles may homage to his cataloguing methods and also to the countries he visited and creatures he saw.

Kungstradgarden

The translation of Kungstradgarden, on the blue line, is King’s Garden and is built beneath what was once the French gardens of Makalos Palace.  The station is a homage to the Palace, and other buildings, that were lost as the city redeveloped.  It features a number of statues that are replicas of those that would have stood on the site in its former incarnation.

I hope you’ve enjoyed your journey through the subway and please do join me as we venture in to the sunshine for my next post from Stockholm.

 

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Virtual Travels – journeys through the weird world of Instagram

After a summer of relative regularity, my posting activity became a little sparse.  One reason for this is that, towards the end of July, I dipped my toe for the first time in to the inviting waters of Instagram.  I had been wary for years, having heard tales of stolen intellectual property and copyright ownership by ‘the Man’ but, after a conversation with a friend who is a regular user, was persuaded to give the platform a go, primarily as a means of increasing traffic to this site.  I would like to say that I was successful but statistics do not lie.  WordPress records advise that in the last five months there has been a grand total of one referral to my blog from Instagram.

So has the whole thing been a pointless exercise?  No.  No journey is ever wasted and, because I set off with a purpose my travels in Instagram Land have been with my eyes open bringing me  a healthy dose of reality.  Once I had accepted that this was not to be the route to more readers my first task was to get to know the inhabitants of my new world.  From my initial encounters I have identified three main tribes:-

  1. Those selling
  2. Those buying
  3. Those wanting to sell

The buyers are the smallest group of the three.  Often their accounts are private, followers are restricted to friends and family.  They post pictures of their pets, their children, their dinners and their holiday snaps.  They ‘like’ similar posts by their friends and family but also images from strangers that appeal to them.  Occasionally that image is one of mine and I am grateful for it.

My encounters with the sellers have also been generally positive, largely because they have involved choice and action on my behalf. Successful sellers do not need to approach you.  They lay out their wares, whether they are actual things you can buy for money, or more intangible, a lifestyle, an art form, which you can support, validate, approve of with the craved for, powerful, ‘like’.  I went to Instagram to sell but have often found myself in the role of buyer.  There are some truly talented and interesting people in the world and I continue to be amazed by the electronics that allow me to admire the drawings of an artist in Mexico, to laugh at the hilarious anecdotes of an antiques collector in the US, to follow along on the travels of a Geneva based UN employee working to combat the use of torture, to marvel at the drone photography skills of a Finnish teenager, all from a 3 x 5 inch screen in my hand.

The tribe of would be sellers is the most troubling. There is real money to be made as a social media influencer.  Unsurprisingly it now ranks amongst the dream jobs sought after by the next generation, usurping the old staples of sporting and music star.  Often a would be seller holds themselves our as a buyer.  This is part of the like for like, follow for follow culture that is rife in Instagram Land.  Sometimes the approach is subtle; a ‘like’ on more than one photo, perhaps even a comment (often using the words ‘my dear’ which I suspect is an attempt at friendliness by those for whom English is not a first language but to me appears strange and unsettling, conjuring images of the wolf in grandma’s bed).  The comment will likely praise the image or gallery and ask for a visit to the ‘buyer’s’ site to give them feedback, a request for attention disguised as a complement.  Other approaches are brazen; an unexpected follow from a random account, sometimes connected to a recent post of yours but sometimes wildly off key.  By example a few months ago I posted a photo taken at the Viking ship museum in Roskilde, Denmark and used the hashtag ‘viking’.  Within minutes I was being followed by the official account of the Minnesota Vikings American football team.  In this environment ‘likes’ and follows become commodities with monetary value.  It is possible to buy both.  This explains the accounts with one or two pictures and thousands of followers.

Now that I know it a little better will I continue my adventures in Instagram Land?  Would I recommend it to a fellow traveller?  There is certainly something appealingly (or should that be appallingly) easy about it.  Select your chosen image, add a filter if you wish, a few words, a few hashtags and boom – it’s out there in the world.  No hours of careful crafting, no redrafting.  It is, as the name suggests, instant and, I must grudgingly admit, gratifying.  Back to those statistics.  On average my Instagram posts generate 15 to 20 ‘likes’, roughly double my average for WordPress.  Yesterday one particular image reached the dizzying heights of 58 and is still climbing.  I appreciate that this is very small fry when the top ‘grammers generate views in the thousands but to me, it is unprecedented popularity.  And yes, it is addictive.  We all crave acceptance and there is nothing more perfectly designed to generate inner smiles of smugness than the approval of a stranger for something we have created.  It makes us feel important, it masks, for a fleeting second, our insignificance, it calms our fear of mortality.  It is massively distorting and unhealthy but, like all other things that are bad for us, we keep reaching for it because it is also oh so good.

The lesson here, if there is one at all, is that we must be varied in our travel.  A week’s beach trip to Instagram Land should be alternated with a cultural exchange to WordPress World, a place where it is much more difficult to buy approval and where more meaningful, long term, relationships can be formed, something that will last beyond the holiday romance.  My new year’s resolution is to remember this and to write more often and maybe I’ll see you on my travels in the virtual country of your choice.

 

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Exploring downtown Helsinki and Suomenlinna – a belated Happy Birthday to Finland

On the 6th of December Finland celebrated 100 years as an independent nation and, in honour of the country’s centenary, I thought it high time to return and complete the record of our adventures at the end of August.

After a reacquainting with peace and quiet in the countryside and fully recovered from the excesses of our first crayfish party (read more about both here and here) we headed to Helsinki.

The city is relatively compact as capitals go, and easy to get around on foot or by tram.  It boasts buildings in a wide range of architectural styles, from the Neoclassical grandeur of the Lutheran Cathedral (the green domed building in the pictures above) to the National Romanticism of the central railway station with its towering granite giants.

The waterfront is home to an outdoor market, selling souvenirs and stalls of fresh fruit and vegetables, a taster of the produce on offer inside the nearby Old Market Hall, a covered food market.

Where as the high vaulted hall has served customers since 1889, the area’s newest addition is Allas Sea Pool, offering swimming and saunas right on the water.  If this is too tame a prospect, the dark capsule on the ferris wheel in the picture below provides the means to sauna in the air.

Opposite Allas the ferry to Suomenlinna docks and the short trip out to the six small islands that collectively form a Unesco World Heritage site, is worth it for the views of Helsinki alone.

There’s something for everyone on Suomenlinna.  Perhaps most famous for its 18th century fortress, the island is also home to museums of military and maritime history, shops selling art, crafts and souvenirs, a variety of restaurants (including a Japanese tea room) and a brewery.

A popular option is to have a picnic in one of the many open spaces, either brought with you from the mainland or purchased in the small grocery shop near the main ferry quay.  We chose a peaceful spot above a beach on the island of Kustaanmiekka, furthest from the shore, where we could watch the boats go by.

Suomenlinna is not just a tourist attraction but a district of Helsinki in its own right and home to a population of just under 1,000.  Many of the inhabitants are artists and the houses are beautifully decorated, often with a nautical theme.

A visit to Suomenlinna can easily fill a day and should certainly be on your itinerary if you are planning a visit to Helsinki.  And so we leave Finland by wishing it a happy birthday, may there be many more visits to come.

 

 

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Coveting Finnish design classics – Viikki district, Helsinki

Helsinki is an architecture lover’s dream.  There are modernist buildings, functionalist buildings, examples of the Neo-classical, the Byzantine-Russian and the greatest number of Art Nouveau buildings in Northern Europe.  And it’s not just design classics of the past that are worthy of your time.  Head out in to the suburbs for examples of the latest creations of Finland’s civic architects.  High on your list should be the district of Viikki.  Here new housing developments are awash with colour and shape.  Each block has its own work of art, large, free standing sculptures, images etched in to the side of buildings, structures for children to play on.

Viikki’s place on the design map is not just a recent occurrence.  It is the birth place of Arabia, the pottery and ceramics manufacturer, famous throughout the world as it holds a licence to produce Moomin related products.  Arabia is now part of the Fiskars group (designers of the classic orange handled scissors) together with Iittala glassworks.

House in the old Arabia factory is a design centre for all three brands and the textile company Finlayson.  As well as offering many tempting things to buy, the centre has displays explaining the design process and production techniques within the shop on the 2nd floor as well as a separate museum on the 9th floor.

In the same building you will find other Finnish design brands, such as Marimekko, to browse.  Not to be out done by its contents, the modern extension to the old factory building boasts a past winner of Finland’s roof of the year.  It would be hard to find more design success in one place if you tried.

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Harnessing the power of nature – a visit to Helsinki’s Museum of Technology

Helsinki’s Museum of Technology is, appropriately, housed in an old water treatment plant in the city’s  Viikki district.  Here the Vanhankaupunginlahti rapids thunder their way towards the sea as the river widens in to an estuary.  It is the perfect place to harness the water’s power.  The museum focusses on exhibitions relating to technology and industry in Finland from the 19th century to today, some of which are interactive and aimed at younger visitors, such as assembling an over-sized circuit board.  There is an interesting collection of black and white images of industrial workers and a large amount of artefacts, including a full bank of telephone exchanges.

When we visited in August the museum was undergoing an up-grade and was a little dishevelled inside, with some areas cordoned off, but as entry was free that day (a perk of Finland’s national Nature Day – for more of which visit my post here) this was easily ignored.

Across the river from the main hall, and contained in a collection of redbrick buildings dating from 1876, is the Power Plant Museum.  This is open only in the summer months and entry is included under the same ticket.  The plant worked as a sister to the water treatment facility, generating hydro-electricity to pump the clean water to local homes and creating steam as a reserve source of power for the purification equipment.

Much of the equipment is still in place and the scale of it is truly vast.  The heat and noise that must have been produced is hard to imagine, the only sounds a modern visitor can hear being the soft roar of the rapids and distant shouts of children from the surrounding park.  For those less interested in late Victorian machinery, the buildings themselves are a thing of stark beauty, filled with light refracting glass, carved stone and intricate metal castings, all the ingredients you need for an unusual and educational day out.

 

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Celebrating Finnish Nature Day – Viikki district, Helsinki

2017 sees Finland celebrate its 100th birthday and the year is being marked by a series of national events.  100 days ahead of the 100th independence day it was Nature Day’s turn in the celebratory calendar and we happened to be in Helsinki to take part.  We were staying with a friend in Viikki district, a suburb to the west of the city centre and which turned out to be an excellent place to take part in the day’s activities.  Viikki, despite recent housing developments is still home to large areas of farmland, part of which is used by the University of Helsinki for its biosciences, veterinary medicine and forestry and agriculture departments.  There is also a designated conservation area of forest and marshland which, on Nature Day, was hosting bird watching classes.

We chose to join in the family focused fun taking place in the park around Vanhankaupunginlahti rapids.  A children’s fishing competition was underway, with a prize for the person who caught the most species.  Rods were for hire so all could join in, even those still in buggies as you can see in the photograph above.

For anyone wondering what the catch might taste like, fisherman at a stall were demonstrating filleting skills and cooking up samples of fishcake for visitors to try for free.

Other stalls were run by governmental agencies such as the fisheries and wildlife department, who were selling fish and mushroom identification books and postcards and displaying the different varieties of crayfish that can be found in Finland.  As it was crayfish season (click here for more crayfish related antics) this was a popular attraction.

For some it may seem a little strange that the focus of Nature Day leant towards consumption, but an understanding of the Finnish psyche puts this all in to perspective.  These are people who have retained an understanding and a respect for their environment, who, unlike many in my home country, still forage and fish and grow their own, even the city dwellers.  There is a balance here, founded on a solid education.  When you live in a country that for many months of the year is wild and inhospitable you quickly learn that you cannot manage, cannot control or suppress nature.  Instead you must live alongside it, use what it offers sustainably and protect it to ensure that, next year, it allows you to continue.  It is a lesson that we all should heed.

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Seeking out the little details – a day trip to Tallinn, Estonia

It has been six years since I spent a memorable few hours in the company of a couple of hundred drunken, karaoke singing, tango dancing Finns as our ferry cut its way through the ice encrusted sea between Helsinki and Tallinn (you can read about that trip here).  In the intervening years a new, and rather beautiful, ferry terminal has been built in Helsinki and a new fleet of faster, shinier boats have been commissioned.  As a result travel time has been reduced to around two hours and for a mere 20 Euros return it was an easy decision to make to take a day to see what the Estonian capital looks like without the snow.

The trip does involve some considerable time at sea but fortunately there is plenty onboard to keep you entertained with a choice of bars, places to eat, indoor and outdoor seating and a duty free shop big enough to get lost in.  For the highly taxed Finns the Estonia’s cheaper alcohol prices are one of the main reasons for making the journey and the boat is well stocked.  You can even buy a special trolley, the right width to hold beer crates, to carry your purchases home.

Once docked in Tallinn it is a short walk up hill from the port to the Old Town.  The first thing I noticed was that the city felt significantly busier than on our previous visit, perhaps something to do with the 20 degree difference in temperature.  The main sights remained as beautiful but just a little less magical as one of a crowd.

Time to re-evaluate our objectives.  If everyone else was focused on the big, the viewpoints, the ornate cathedrals, the restaurants and the main square, we would seek out the small, the back alleys, the details, the over-looked. And once we started looking there was so much to see.

Let’s start with the doors.  I could have filled an entire memory card with doors.  From the grandest carving to the most modest flaking paint, every building we passed had a door worthy of recording.  And it didn’t stop with the doors.  Gates, ironwork, even mail boxes clamoured for attention.

I was also pleased to discover a rise in street art.  In the right place I am a fan of graffiti and fortunately most that I saw in Tallinn was in the right place, supporting and enhancing not defacing.

I found the location of the piece above particularly appropriate.  It is written on a wall at one of the most popular view points, a place where people are busily trying to capture the present it is fitting to be reminded of that memories are more than just our photographs; you cannot fix feelings on film.

At the market in the main square my eye was drawn not to the nesting dolls, fridge magnets and other souvenirs but to the wonderful milliners stand, not so much for the hats but for the models.  We rounded off our visit with a fantastic (and incredibly cheap) meal in a bar full of locals, made the obligatory stop at the alcohol store to replenish my Finnish friend’s supplies and boarded the ferry back to Helsinki.  As the sun set, rather dramatically, on a day well spent, I was thankful, as I so often find myself, for the little things.

 

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